There’s a Secret Ingredient in Fluffy Diner Pancakes — And It Isn’t Buttermilk

There is something special about diner pancakes. They are light and fluffy on the inside, beautifully golden around the edges and have a subtle toasted, almost caramel-like flavor that makes them hard to recreate at home.

But according to pastry chef Caroline Schiff, the secret may not be buttermilk at all. The unexpected ingredient that can give homemade pancakes that classic diner-style character is malted milk powder. Schiff was named a Food & Wine Best New Chef in 2022 and has extensive experience working with baked goods and nostalgic desserts.

Why Malted Milk Powder Makes a Difference

Malted milk powder is commonly made from ingredients including barley malt, wheat, milk and salt. Unlike active malt powders, the non-diastatic version typically used in baking does not act as a leavening agent.

Instead, its biggest contribution is flavor.

It can add a toasty, nutty and slightly caramelized taste to baked goods. That flavor is particularly associated with classic diner-style foods, including pancakes, waffles and milkshakes.

The ingredient is also relatively easy to incorporate into a standard pancake recipe, making it a simple way to give an ordinary breakfast a more distinctive flavor.

How Much Malted Milk Powder Should You Use?

Schiff suggests starting with approximately 1 tablespoon of malted milk powder for every cup of flour in a batter.

Because malted milk powder adds some sweetness, she recommends reducing the sugar slightly in pancake batter. Her suggested adjustment is roughly 2 teaspoons less sugar for every tablespoon of malted milk powder.

The powder should be mixed thoroughly with the dry ingredients before adding the wet ingredients. This helps prevent it from forming stubborn lumps.

Don’t Confuse It With Ovaltine

Although Ovaltine contains malted ingredients, it isn’t a direct substitute for malted milk powder. Ovaltine contains additional ingredients and is considerably sweeter, so using it in the same quantity can change both the flavor and sweetness of your pancakes.

For the most predictable results, look for non-diastatic malted milk powder in the baking aisle.

The Other Secrets to Fluffy Pancakes

Malted milk powder handles the flavor, but technique still matters if you want tall, tender pancakes.

Avoid overmixing the batter. A few small lumps are perfectly fine. Mixing too aggressively can develop excess gluten and result in tougher, denser pancakes.

Letting the batter rest for a few minutes can also help the flour absorb the liquid more evenly. And make sure your cooking surface is properly heated before adding the batter. A hot griddle helps create the golden exterior associated with diner pancakes.

A Simple Upgrade Worth Trying

The next time you make pancakes, don’t automatically reach for more buttermilk or extra butter. Try adding a small amount of malted milk powder instead.

That one pantry ingredient can introduce the subtle roasted, nutty sweetness that makes diner pancakes so memorable. And once you have a container in your kitchen, you can use it beyond pancakes—it can also add a nostalgic malt flavor to cookies, brownies, fudge and milkshakes.

So, if your homemade pancakes never quite taste like the stack from your favorite diner, malted milk powder could be the missing ingredient.